Due mainly to the surroundingings of sloping terraces of rice paddies the immediate landscape reminded us both slightly of the Mudbrick Winery and Restaurant in Waiheke (Auckland, NZ) or of Franschhoek wine valley (South Africa) - places we'd been when I was last pregnant actually. But ultimately it brought to mind the images we've seen of Machu Picchu -  a place we'd love to go to. And the colour of the local Hill Tribes women only added to that sense. There are several different ethnic tribes, all related to one another, but each with their own distinct traditions and dress, living in or around Sapa: the black H'mong, the Zai and the Red Dao.


It was the latter whom we met during our walks in or around the Ecolodge or rather the latter who followed us on our walks. We ventured out for a walk to one of the local villages on our first day at the lodge and were greeting by the sight of a sea of glorious red head head dresses which crowned the smiling tribes ladies sporting them. Upon seeing us a group of them comprising about seven sprinted to their baskets, filled with their homemade wares, which they hoisted onto their backs and proceeded to carry the whole way as they accompanied us on our walk for the entire 2 1/2 hours it took. Virtually all carrying umbrellas too - a useful double shield to the sun and rain which are both characteristic of Sapa at any given time. It was a brilliant and funny experience to be flanked throughout our walk by these charming companions who all the while pointed out local flora and fauna to us and who each told us their ages and how many children they each had. Not all mere altruistic on their part though. Ultimately the goal is to have you buy their hand crafts. The hard sell though didn't really kick in until we were nearly back at the lodge having enjoyed amazing scenery and snipits of local ethnic life. Having noticed that I was the easy target it seemed that their tactic was to divide and conquer; herding me further along ahead from Phil to negotiate what I would buy, from whom and for how much. I had been warned off doing any negotiations by Phil as I am absolutely chronically bad at bartering - for example we had bought a baby sling from one of the Black H'mong at Sapa town and I had somehow managed to barter the price up - don't ask! So I just smiled and laughed at their questions as though I didn't understand. And approaching the lodge I just left it up to Phil to do “the deal”. I think that seeing Phil in the midst of these frantic ladies who were all scrambling and vying for his attenion - both parties wheeling and dealing but good humouredly - was one of the funniest things I have ever seen. At the end of the exchange - we all parted company agreeing that we were all happy. Well - how couldn't you be happy in such a sublimely beautiful place.

We're back in Hanoi now from Sapa for the last 3 days and we agree that, along with Hoi An and Halong Bay, it was one of the highlights of our time in Vietnam and indeed our time in Southeast Asia. A trip that is now coming to an end as we board our flights to Sydney tomorrow. We're all a little bit sad to be saying Goodbye to this leg of our adventures. Southeast Asia has been good to our little family. We've loved it. Throughout Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam the people, the food, the weather and the scenery have been truly wonderful. All of the countries we've visited hold a very special place in our hearts. If we had to choose our favourite country of the three it'd probably be Vietnam. But it's really hard to call. Afterall we picked up some very special cargo in Thailand....

Phil was at his “regular” bia hoi (beer) joint last night and made friends with one of the locals, Tuan, who asked him about the white (well now off white) band he was wearing on his wrist which Phil has been wearing for over 4 months now. He was surprised Phil was wearing one as it is a Buddhist band and he asked him how it had transpired that he had come to be wearing one. Upon which my atheist husband explained that it'd been tied around his wrist when he visited Doi Suthep Wat, a temple in Chiang Mai, by a Buddhist monk who did so unprompted and in silence. And he couldn't explain why but he really liked it and hadn't taken it off since. It was later that very day he'd been given that same band that we found out that I was pregnant. Last night Tuan explained to Phil that this band is a Buddhist symbol for good luck. Phil and I have vowed that this band will go into bump's special little treasures box for posterity after his/ her arrival.

So, folks, our next post will be from the Antipodes where we wil be reunited with my sister Aine and family which we are all very excited about. Luca is (trying!) to be on his best behaviour and telling everyone he meets that he is going to see his cousins and Auntie and Uncle in Bondi. He has never met them in person as the last time we were in Sydney, four years ago, he was a twinkle in his Daddy's eye as I was about 4 months pregnant with him. In a way I guess that going there with me 4 months pregnant again we have come full circle. So keep following guys and do, please, keep in touch. 

Linda, Phil, Luca & our (Buddha blessed) bump x

“Sometimes you have to go half way around the world to come full circle”

Lost in Translation